Climbing in Kalymnos

…is an all time favourite. And it’s topping up the favourites list in the last few years.

Kalymnos is an island some 20 minutes away by ferry from the Island Kos in Greece. We discovered Kalymnos in 2001, many people kept saying that there’s so much potential in-between the crags, you could build up routes for the rest of your life.Well, if you’re alone, yes, you may need quite an effort and some time to finish all those routes. We left for Kalymnos in 2001 to test and feel those 21 sectors people were drooling about.

Last Sunday we returned from our 3rd trip to Kalymnos in 2009, now offering up to more than 45 different sectors, and a few more growing out of your sleeves. It’s amazing what the island has developed into within those couple of years. The infrastructure is perfect for families, or for climbers wishing to combine both climbing and beaching / snorkelling, rest days are always too little if you want to discover the island (with your muscles or your eyes) in one of your 2 weeks holiday you spend there. Kalymnos is the perfect place for climbers, with the perfect combination for climbing and having a real holiday in a very friendly, sunny and inexpensive island.

The Island has barely any trees. The landscape is rough, filled with those thorny bushes that tend to scar you with some scratches on the way to the crag. If you’re sensitive about this, it’s best to wear good trekking shoes and comfortable, breezy long trousers that don’t tear easily. I didn’t….but I didn’t mind the scratches either. The island is full of thyme schrubs, all yummies for the goats that run around. Nevertheless, the island is awesome with it’s high mountains, cliffs and blue skies and those crystal blue waters.

The best time to go there is from April till October. It is possible to climb during the winter, as there are sectors which are sheltered from the cold north wind and rain, but you may have to expect rainy days and wind during your holidays. September and October has rumoured to be the peak season. And we found this very true. In certain sectors, if you are aiming for a certain route, you may find yourself getting to your favourite route at 8am to hang in your quick draws and then you’ll be surprise how many climbers are able to get up so early to start off their climbing day. And you thought climbers usually sleeps out till midday! The climbing scene is very international, climbers in all levels. You would practically meet people from every corner of the European country, the States, yes, even Australians too. Due to the friendly bolting in most of the sectors, you tend to find a very positive trend of women leading their routes. Times are changeing guys, so brace yourself

You won’t find routes with only tufas & blobs on Kalymnos. There are sufficient sectors with technical routes, crimpy holds, chicken heads, ledges, holes, slabs and vertical walls. All sectors are within reach in a 5 – 20 minute walk or the max with 50 mins (Jurassic, Sicati, Telendos, Galiatini, Magic Wall) You may want to bring a helmet along. In certain sectors with a lot of traffic, some stalactites may break, or like from my personal experience, when goats passes by just above the routes and stones just rain on you. This won’t happen when you’re under an overhang, but it doesn’t hurt when the belayer has something to grab on, when it’s necessary. It’s nothing compulsory, rather, something to be aware off. Well, if you don’t use the helmets for climbing, you may want to use them while you are driving around with your scooters. I tried those helmets they supply you at the shops, but they were all too big for me and flew off everytime when accelerating. In both our trips to Kalymnos, we hired a scooter. They cost between 10 – 15,-€/ Day and Mike’s Bikes has good and friendly service. Small cars are also available. Check out AVIS in Massouri for prices. Small cars are now available. It’s essential to plan how you are going to get your rucksack on your scooters and more comfortable, if you divide the load in 2 small rucksacks.

One thing you may want to take note, plan to get up early to get best conditions. The sun hits most of the sectors between 13.30 – 14.00. If you love climbing in the sun with 30°C – my respects– don’t forget your sun cream. Generally you climb till noon, and beach off the rest of the day, or end up your climbing day at a fabulous tavern by the sea with some “small fish” or fresh whole fish at unbeatable prices. Sectors that have the longest possible shade during the day is Odyssey, Ghost kitchen, Spartacus, Sparten and Afternoon, Kalydna, Stankill, Iannis, Sylbelglades, Sicati cave and Telendos. Don’t forget your pocket lamps if you intend to climb into the sunset. Now and then, the island experiences a black out which last some 15 mins… hope that it’s not your pizza that’s in the oven right now..

Recently this year, Aris and friends, and some guys from switzerland opened up a few new sectors on Telendos island. Telendos lies opposite of Kalymnos, it’s sectors are all either east or north facing. Take a boat (1,50€) from Myrties that runs every half an hour to the island and back. The first bolting took place in 2001 in Sector Eros with Markus Schmed from Switzerland, Michel from Innsbruck and Claudia. Shade from 11.00 and climbing in overhangs on pumpy routes and a great panorama over the sea, it’s not as crowded as Kalymnos. 100m further down by the seashore, you would find Irox. Newly bolted in Easter 2007 and offering some 50 routes just by the seaside. You will find 2 more sectors further right of Irox: Pescatore and Glaros (newly bolted in Nov. 2008). Topos are available if you ask for them by Gianni, the boatman. I’d suggest you take the private speed boat from Telendos and save the 50 mins walking there with a heavy rucksack. Call up Gianni, the boatman and make an appointment for the following day to take you there at reasonable prices. (See Guidebook or any of the many posters hanging around for his contact) Combine the end of the day with a meal at the harbour. Meat or fish, the restaurants know how to keep their guests happy with good food. At present, Telendos offers up to 120 new routes and many more to come.

Since 2007, Kalymnos has it’s own airport. Flights from Athens fly there 1-2x a day. The airport lies quite on top of a little hill that lies between Pothia and Massouri. When strong winds occur, it could happen that planes don’t fly, and ferries don’t start from Mastichari (Kos). Getting stranded in Kos for a couple of days must not be devastating, as Kos offers some boulder areas – and..why not bum out to recover from your flight?

Eating out in Kalymnos is a fantastic experience. We were having more trouble keeping our lines and not climbing enough to deserve our meals. There are many Bars and Cafés serving breakfast, dozens of taverns to choose from, italian and one french restaurant in Massouri. You will find many climbers in Fatolitis and the Glaros Bar. Free wireless internet is also available everywhere. Most of the restaurants and shops are open till the end of October. The taverns in Myrties, Armeos, Argrinonda and Emporios are just as good, and not as crowded. The prices on that part of the island are unbeatable, comparing to Kos. A whole meal could cost between 6 and 8,-€ be it fish or meat. Try not only the greek salad, but also the traditional Meltzemi salad or fresh whole fish which is divinely grilled and served with home made olive oil, or the grilled octopus, katsiki, kléftiko, jemistés, Octopus balls (Keftedes), Dolmades… the list goes on. Be flexible, and ask them what’s fresh today. One of the unbeatable meals we had was in Harry’s Paradise, in Emporios. Very much recommended.

Once it comes to where to stay, be aware that Greek standards don’t meet up to those standards you are used to. You’d find studios and apartments all between 15 – 30,- € per night, without breakfast. Most of the studios have a small kitchenette which enables you to make a simple meal in your apartment when you don’t feel like eating out. The showers are – no matter where you go – mostly generated by the solar. So it can sometime happen that hot water runs out once the sun goes down and when it’s shower day for everyone in your hotel. The water that comes out of the tap is salty. It’s drink water but you definately can’t make any tea with those. Everybody usually buys water, or you can fill up your water bottles at 2 springs that’s found in Massouri. If you put up in Massouri, Myrties or Armeos, the main climbing sectors are all within walking distances. But if you intend to walk, you may get cooked by the time you get to the crag. It’s also possible to get to the other sectors on the island with the bus that cruises between Emporios and Pothia regularly.

Kalymnos is a great place for climbing, beaching, snorkeling and exploring those caves. I loved the friendly and very relaxed atmosphere and people, great quality rocks, friendly bolting, clear water perfect for snorkeling and the island itself. There’s just no time for getting bored with so many more routes and sectors popping out from every corner of the island. It’s an island made just for us climbers

Food Shopping:

• Small supermarkets in Massouri,
• Bigger Supermarkets in Kantouni..and cheaper!
• Pothia

Gear:
Climber’s Nest in Armeos – for Guide Books and rental equipments too . Birgit speaks german. She’s also strongly involved in www.hands-of-kalymnos.com an animal welfare society for abandoned animals in Kalymnos. Wild Sport shop in Massouri, next to the Plaza Hotel. They have a broad sortiment on clothings and gear.

Internet:
Diverse internet cafes in Massouri

Where to stay:
If you like to get to the sectors by foot, Massouri & Armeos and Melitsitha are the nearest to sectors like Poets, Grande Grotta, Spartacus. If you decide on any other town, it’s best to get a scooter or car, or check out the bus timetable that runs between Emporios and Pothia. Here’s a few links to check find the perfect place for you.

Official Website of Kalymnos

Kalymnos Hotels and Studios

Greek.com more hotels

Guide books:
Rock climbing Guide by Aris Theodoropoulos 2006
- you can get an update at Climbers Nest

Season:
A ll year. Best time to come is from April to October. All restaurants and shops do close at the end of October.

Getting there:
You can get a charter flight to KOS, get a taxi to Mastichari (13€ – 15€) port, then take the fast ferry (Kalymnos Star, 20 mins, 6€/pers) or the slow one (50 mins) to Pothia. Alternatively, you can fly to Athens, and then take the flight directly to Kalymnos airport. At present, the plane flies twice daily. Do check the time tables on the day you take the ferry to be sure that it’s really leaving on time.

some Sectors:

Styx

Kastri

Palace

Sikati

Skalia Pillar

Ghost kitchen

Cave

Galatiani

Black Forest

Noufaro

Arhi

Sea Breeze

Amphitheatre Agrinonta

Summertime

Kasteli

North Cape

School

Odyssey

Ocean Dream

Olympic Wall

Iliada

Jurassic Park

Spartacus

Spartan Wall

Afternoon

Grande Grotta

Panorama

Stankill

Kalydna

Iannis

Poets

Zeus

Gerakios

Ourania

Symplegades Rock

Austrians

Mantra

Monastry

Saint Photis

Hora Castle

Dodoni

Vathy

Telendos with some 120 new routes at: Gymnasium, Barbarossa, Totem Pole, For Telendian, Eros, Irox.

Links:

Kalymnos Gallery – more pictures on Kalymnos

Website of Aris Th.

Tags: ghost kitchen, grande grotta, greece, kalymnos, massouri, rock climbing

This entry was posted on Saturday, June 19th, 2010 at 18:51 and is filed under Places. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.